The Country Kitchen is the third restaurant to take up residence in the old Pete’s Place building in between Lufkin and Huntington, and from my experience, they’re taking the helm on well.

The menu is decently sized with an emphasis on the appetizers. My husband and I chose the bacon cheese fries, Blooming Onion and the new, not-even-on-the-menu yet Bottlecaps as appetizers.

The bacon cheese fries were delicious — thick crinkle cut fries with creamy yellow cheese and real bacon bits. I’m not usually a fan of thick fries, but these were juicy and full of potato-y goodness. When paired with the flavorful bacon bits and cheddar cheese, the whole shebang came together. It was also served with ranch, which helped the odd fry here or there that didn’t have enough cheese.

The Blooming Onion was very good, great breading, great oil, good flavor. It wasn’t quite as flavorful as the popular version created by Outback, but it was certainly less greasy, which was appreciated. Pair it with the ample ranch that goes around, and you’ve got a great combo.

The Bottlecaps, jalapeño slices covered in batter and fried to perfection, were lovely. The breading was a wonderful buffer for the spicy bite of the jalapeño and was excellently tempered with the smooth ranch flavor.

For entrees, we chose the hamburger basket served with tater tots and the crispy chicken salad. The hamburger was that classic cheeseburger, nothing less than you’d expect. It had a good ratio of ingredients and a fresh patty — think Zesty Burger but with smaller portions and less grease. The tater tots were crispy but not crunchy, which my husband appreciated, and the potato interior was juicy with a great flavor.

The crispy chicken salad was a wonderful assortment — fresh lettuce, cherry tomatoes, broccoli, sliced cucumber, pickle spears, cheese and a dressing of your choice. The chicken had a great taste and delightfully crunchy breading, and it didn’t commit the cardinal sin of dryness.

For dessert, we picked out a slice of cheesecake, which I was head over heels for. The buttercream taste paired phenomenally with the fluffy texture and moist, flavorful crust. I highly recommend this light bite for the end of a full meal.

Overall, The Country Kitchen lives up to its name and the history of deliciousness of its location. The prices are very agreeable, and the staff is friendly and welcoming.

The Country Kitchen is at 6938 U.S. Highway 69 south in Homer. It’s open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sunday and closed on Monday. For more information, call 824-5099 or visit the Facebook page.

Olive Waldorf is a pseudonym for the food critic of The Lufkin Daily News. Her email is foodcritic@lufkindailynews.com.